Chess in Zaragoza is as popular as ever. Just 2 weekends ago the great Anatoly Karpov visited the city to promote a city tournament and play some exhibition chess. The highlight of the weekend events was a large outdoor simultaneous display at the city centre comprising 250 boards. Karpov started the opening move in all of them and then concentrated in 14 selected boards while other masters continued the rest of the games. Over 400 participants of all ages enjoyed the event and loved getting their photograph with the former World Champion.
In the end Karpov won 13 out the 14 games and only conceded a draw against an old friend and FIDE master Cristobal Ramo. Interestingly, Cristobal beat Garry Kasparov 21 years ago in another outdoor simul in the city, soon after Garry became World Champion. When we were young kids Cristobal and I played for the same club (Helios) and even represented our school team (Maristas) where he was a great top board and I was a very distant second.
Ever since I was a kid, playing chess outdoors in late spring and summer has been very popular in Zaragoza, often simultaneous displays to attract youngsters to the game. In Spain chess is generally more popular than in the UK and is almost considered a sport. I once took part in a gruelling 24 hour chess marathon in Galicia consisting of 6 one hour games, followed by 6 30 minute games, to finish off with 6 five minute games, all pretty much in succession. It certainly felt like the hardest sport I had ever played...
A number of top GMs reside in Spain including Anand, Shirov and Topalov to name only a few. Before his ascendency to glory Topalov used to tour the country winning open tournament after tournament. Chess in Spain has prospered since Lucena's writings in the XV century to the very famous 1985 World championship in Sevilla between Kasparov and Karpov. Zaragoza is holding the International Exposition (Expo) in 2008. Hopefully it will serve to further promote chess in this great city.Antonio Moneva Jordan
Garry Kasparov - Cristobal Ramo Frontinan, Zaragoza Simul 1986
1.e4 c6 2.d4 g6 3.f4 d5 4.e5 h5 5.Nf3 Nh6 6.Be3 Bg7 7.Nbd2 Bf5 8.h3 Nd7 9.Bf2 Nf8 10.c3 Ne6 11.g3 Rc8 12.b4 a5 13.a3 axb4 14.axb4 Ra8 15.Ng5 Rxa1 16.Qxa1 0-0 17.Be2 Qa8 18.0-0 Nc7 19.Kh2 Qc8 20.Qd1 f6 21.Ngf3 Bxh3 22.Nh4 Bxf1 23.Nxf1 Kh7 24.Ne3 f5 25.c4 Qe6 26.b5 dxc4 27.Nf3 Qd7 28.Ng5+ Kh8 29.bxc6 bxc6 30.Bxc4 Nd5 31.Qb3 e6 32.Bxd5 cxd5 33.Qb6 Re8 34.Be1 Ng4+ 35.Nxg4 hxg4 36.Bb4 Bh6 37.Qd6 Qxd6 38.exd6 Bxg5 39.fxg5 Rd8 40.Kg2 Kg7 41.Kf2 Kf7 42.Ke3 Ke8 43.Kf4 Kd7 44.Ke5 Rf8 0-1
I have fond memories of playing in chess cafes on previous trips [to Amsterdam] such as Gambit. Unfortunately the proprietor passed away and the venue has been closed for a couple of years now. However, there is a new venue "De Laurierboom” (the laurel tree) that I wanted to check-out. I knew that Saturday is a bad day to find chess players in Holland as national league matches take place – but I walked to the café anyway in the hope of finding a game.
There were half a dozen people in the relatively small venue and although no-one was actually playing at 16:00 several were reading chess books or magazines (of which there was a plentiful supply). The atmosphere was very relaxed and I ordered a coffee from the bar – stronger options are available, there are six beers on tap!
I was easily able to get a game and must particularly thank Folker van Dorp for his hospitality as he steadfastly refused to let me buy a round of beers as we played 7 minute blitz. I also appreciated the way he adhered to the implicit rule of not playing the same line twice so after e4 c5 Nf3 e6 d4 cd c3 he felt obliged to take on c3 (rather than playing his normal choice d5) to avoid repeating a previous game. [Roger: check Paul's notes on a trap in the Morra Gambit]
Time flew by until Folker needed to meet his wife after a hard days shopping and I had to head to the airport. It was 19:00 and the café was beginning to fill-up. I guess there were 20 people now gathered round 4 boards and apparently it gets busier as people return from their league matches. Overall a very pleasant few hours in good company – heartily recommended if you find yourself with time in Amsterdam.
Paul Dargan
Few places can claim as magical a location as Samaipata. This gem of a town perches 1800 metres up in the Bolivian Andes; Parque Amboro, the edge of the Amazonian jungles and the most biodiverse place on the planet, flanks it to the North and East; the road in and out hugs the top of vast precipices; there are series of majestic waterfalls; and last, but not least, there is El Fuerte, one of the great Inca edifices and a world heritage site.
My first visit also revealed something else amazing, which needed a double take: driving (bouncing) along the main street we passed the local museum and then a house which I swore had a sign saying "Amigos del Ajedrez" (friends of chess). Stop, reverse, did it really say that, unbelievably it did. Ok, for those of you who don't play chess, why is this amazing:
Amigos del Ajedrez, Samaipata isn't just a chess club though... it's the best chess club in the world. Push open the door (which, by the way, appears to be open 7 days / week, 24 hours / day) and you'll find out why. The club is on three floors sweeping around an open courtyard (complete with giant chess set). There are tournament rooms, lecture rooms, tables flanking the staircase, a reading room complete with portraits of all the world champions, a chess cafe, a restuarant, computers, a vast (and full) trophy cabinet and accomodation. Most importantly, there is a constant buzz as players, including hordes of enthusiastic juniors, flow in and out all day. I knew chess was more important in South America, but this has to be seen to be believed.
I've played in Samaipata twice, been warmly welcomed each time, and then lined up for their most talented youngsters to take 5-minute pot-shots at. On my first visit I chatted with a Prof. Wolfgang Paulin, a German who had founded the club in 1997, and on my second with the principal trainer, Prof. Rolando Luna. I've never been anywhere like it.
Samaipata also boasts everything you'd expect of an small Andean town, deeply rutted mud and clay roads, a butchers with meat 2 or 3 times a week, tablecloths over window-sills to indicate bread is available to buy, the most welcoming and friendly people, and fresh fruit dropping from the trees. Its location also means it offers rustic restaurants, tours of the jungle, and accomodation including backpacking, cabanas and stunning houses. What's more it's on the newly opened Che Guevara trail, he fought a skirmish here shortly before his death in nearby Vallegrande.
If you get the chance, visit!
If you've been to the Moscow Central Club, or somewhere else great... bring on the debate!
